Mbeya & Kitulo Birding Adventure
Morris (2nd right) is recording an observation in Kitulo National Park, Njombe.
Lead guide: Morris Nyambo
Driver: Oswald
We had the pleasure of taking Mathias and his friends Richard and Anne on an adventure through the southern highlands of Tanzania from February 18 to 23, 2025. Our team met them when they flew into Songwe airport (MBI), Mbeya, and then they spent six days seeing animals, landscapes, and rare species.
Day 1 & 2: Arrival and Into the Highlands
After a warm welcome at a charming lodge nestled within an active coffee estate near Mbeya, we spent the evening resting and preparing for the adventure ahead.
The next day, we hit the road in our trusty Land Cruiser, excitement high for our first stop, Poroto Ridge Forest.
Upon arrival, the forest rewarded us immediately with some of the Southern Highlands’ most iconic species that are found in the Southern Highlands, northern Malawi, and extreme northeastern Zambia.
Highlights included the Black-browed Mountain Greenbul, Chapin's Apalis, Moustached Tinkerbird, Olive-flanked Robin-Chat, and Black-lored Cisticola. Observing these species in their natural habitat was a thrilling introduction to the unique biodiversity of this region.
Next, we ventured to Kitulo National Park, famously dubbed the “Serengeti of Flowers.” Perched at over 2,600 meters above sea level, Kitulo dazzles with vast montane grasslands and a kaleidoscope of orchids, wildflowers, and butterflies. The plains, literally blanketed in color during our visit, left both birders and nature enthusiasts in awe.
Montane Widowbird (Euplectes psammacromius). Photo by Matthias Fehlow
While Kitulo is primarily celebrated for its flora, the park did not disappoint our birding ambitions. The Montane Widowbirds stole the show, displaying their full breeding plumage in dramatic courtship flights. We also heard the distinctive calls of Common Quail (a migratory visitor to East African highlands) and were fortunate to spot the elusive Red-winged Francolin (rarely observed in Tanzanian montane grasslands). For our guests, Richard and Anne, many of these species were first-time sightings in Tanzania, making for a truly exhilarating start to their adventure.
Day 2 & 3: From Kitulo to the Shores of Lake Malawi
After a final search for the elusive Blue Swallow (which sadly didn’t show), we drove south through scenic highlands and villages, eventually reaching the warm shores of Lake Nyasa (Lake Malawi). Our rustic lodge overlooked the sandy beach, where we enjoyed a refreshing dip.
The next day, we explored wetlands nearby and found the Coppery-tailed Coucal and the Southern Brown-throated Weaver, which are found in Southwest Tanzania, building nests in active colonies. For Richard and Anne, this was a highlight, especially as they observed their intricate nesting behavior up close.
Day 4: Mount Rungwe and the Quest for the Kipunji
Mount Rungwe, the second-highest peak in southern Tanzania, was our next destination. This region is also home to the critically endangered Kipunji, a species first discovered in 2003. Our goal was clear: find and photograph this elusive primate.
We hiked deep into the Rungwe forest, accompanied by two local expert trackers. After a couple of hours of climbing and maneuvering through bamboo thickets, we struck gold. A group of Kipunjis appeared in the canopy overhead, feeding quietly. It was a magical moment—especially for Mathias, who had a perfect view of the group. Richard and Anne, unfortunately, missed the first sighting, but we weren’t ready to give up.
Rungwecebus kipunji, Mt. Rungwe forest reserve, Mbeya. Photo by Matthias Fehlow
Day 5: Second Attempt and Success All Around
The following day, we made another early morning trek. The trail was steep, and at one point we had to divert through local farmland and grassy hills—resulting in a few itchy mite bites, but also a soaring Crowned Eagle being mobbed mid-air by a Lanner Falcon!
Looking up as a Crowned Eagle being mobbed mid-air by a Lanner Falcon
Eventually, our patience paid off. We found another group of Kipunjis across a forested valley. This time, everyone had a great view. The dominant male kept an eye on us while the others fed calmly, allowing us ample time for observation and photos.
As a bonus, we spotted a stunning butterfly species at the forest edge—still unidentified and possibly rare in the region.
Day 6: Return to Mbeya and Farewell
We left early for Mbeya Airport, even though we ran into some roadblocks and delays we didn't expect. We got there in time for their evening flight to Dar es Salaam. Mathias, Richard, and Anne were nice enough to give Morris & Oswald a token of appreciation. This shows how well we all worked together and how much fun we had on this trip.
Bird species observed: 106
eBird Trip report
Anne, Richard, Morris, and Matthias, Kitulo National Park, Njombe.
